Return to Machu Picchu – Day 7

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Machu Picchu – June 17th 2013 – Ten years ago today!
 

“…Drum roll please! We made it; and what a day it has been. Up at 4:30, breakfast at 5:00; on the bus and up the hairpin road to Machu Picchu entering the site by 6:30, just before the sun came up.
 
It is hard to put into words the impact, the drama and the beauty of this archeological wonder, but I’ll try. It really has to be seen to be believed. All the photographs, films and travelogues cannot really replace the experience of stepping into this other world and feeling nothing but total awe at what was achieved by a remarkable civilization hundreds of years ago. They were architects, astronomers, builders, masons, priests and artists of the most sophisticated kind and what they achieved here is quite simply awe-inspiring.
 
As each new marvel revealed itself around every corner all one could think of was, “How did they do it?” How did they move those massive stones; how could they be so precise so that not even an eyelash could pass between them? As you will see this final day of our trek was a spectacular climax to a never-to-be-forgotten journey of a lifetime. Hopefully the pictures will do justice to our experience and tell the story of the day so that you are able to share it with us: the sunrise striking WaynaPicchu; the Inca terraces rising to incredible heights above us; the shadows of the tombs; the llamas strolling between the ruins; our exhausting climb to the top of WaynaPicchu in the morning and the long, long hike to Intipunku, the Sun Gate, in the afternoon.
 
Our guide for the morning, Fernando, set the scene for the first two hours telling us the story of Machu Picchu in archeological terms but after that we were on our own and able to explore in our own time and at our own pace. Because we were staying an extra night we had to say goodbye to the wonderful members of our group who returned to Aguas Calientes for lunch in the middle of the day. After we had finally reached the Sun Gate around 4:00 pm we headed all the way back down to the entrance, exhausted, exhilarated and very grateful to have had the privilege of being able to spend a day in this wonder of the world.
 
Thanks for joining me as I relived this amazing journey. My thanks once again to Mountain Lodges of Peru, their staff and our wonderful guides Pepe and Carlos; to Michele of Renshaw Travel here in Vancouver; to all the staff at the beautiful mountain lodges; to Condor Travel in Peru; to all the wonderful members of our group, our family in the mountain; to the cook who travelled with us and all the mule drivers who looked after our backpacks every day. And finally to my wonderful wife Hilde, the love of my life, who was like a young mountain goat scampering up those hills with the greatest of ease, inspiring us all every day. It’s really thanks to her that this adventure ever happened.”

 


 

I hope you have enjoyed reliving our adventure ten years later as much as we have.

Return to Machu Picchu – Day 6

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Almost there 🙂

 

June 16th, 2013
 

…Happy Father’s Day! (which it was that day in 2013 although I know when you’re reading this in 2023 it’s not for a couple of days). An early start at 6:30 for a somewhat unexpected uphill trek for three hours towards the Llactapata Pass at 8,974 feet. Hilde and I left with Carlos together with Blanca and Karla to whom we have become very attached. They both work in the office for Mountain Lodges and have been with us since the beginning. They have hiked with Hilde and myself most days and on this special Sunday I have become their surrogate father for Father’s Day. They have certainly have made the trip that extra bit special and we shall miss them when we go home.

The hike started in the shade but as we reached the summit the sun magically lit up the landscape and illuminated a parrot sitting high in the trees enjoying the view of the valley far below. The rest of the group, which left at 7, caught up with us before we reached the Llactapata ruins where we had our first view of Machu Picchu in the distance. I think we all had goose bumps realizing the goal of the last five days was in sight; it was a great moment. On the grass in front of the ruins, with Machu Picchu in the distance, Pepe finished his history of the Incas and described how Hiram Bingham made his remarkable discovery. I had a lovely surprise during his talk when my cell phone suddenly chimed with text messages wishing me Happy Father’s Day from family back home in Vancouver; a moment not to be forgotten.

After we had all taken our photos we continued downhill stopping for a hot lunch at the observatory before continuing on to the Hydroelectric train station. The descent was long, steep, hot and very slippery but experts as we now are!! we reached the valley floor, crossed a suspension bridge, and made it in good time to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, our final destination at the foot of Machu Picchu. Before the train left we said our goodbyes to Carlos and I presented him with my Black Diamond hiking poles as a way of expressing my heartfelt thanks for his helping me survive the week. The train journey was brief but sitting even for an hour in the rather glamorous vista car was a welcome relief. We arrived at our hotel, the wonderful Inkaterra Machu Picchu with its beautiful gardens to be explored. Pisco sours all round at six, dinner and then to bed for an early start in the morning at 4:45 to catch the bus up to Machu Picchu. I hope you’re as excited as we are. Get a good night’s sleep and see you tomorrow.
 

Return to Machu Picchu – Day 5

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As two coffee addicts this was a special day.
 

June 15, 2013
 

…Another glorious day hiking from the Colpa Lodge to the Lucma Lodge at Lucmabamba situated at a very manageable 7000 feet. Before leaving, Pepe took us on a tour of Colpa Lodge’s orchid garden, which was a great start to the day. The trek took us down the Santa Teresa River Valley with the sound of the river heard flowing below us. We passed through coffee plantations and banana and avocado orchards. The vegetation was lush and quite different from the vegetation we have been seeing for the past few days high in the mountains. After a picnic break we were met by a small van that took us to the beginning of the Llactapata Inca Trail, which is the original Inca Trail. It was then only a short thirty minute hike to Lucma Lodge. Once again we were greeted by the wonderful Mountain Lodges of Peru staff with cool cloths and cold fresh passion fruit drinks.

After lunch, off to the highlight of the day, the coffee plantation where the coffee beans were roasted, ground and filtered in front of us; can you smell that delicious aroma? No we did not ask for an Americano misto or a decaf latte, but we did buy two bags of beans to bring home to remind us of the day. Tomorrow will be our first sighting of Machu Picchu. Hard to believe that after months of anticipation and five days of at times exhausting hiking we’re almost there.
 

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Return to Machu Picchu – Day 4

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Looking back on Day 4 ten years ago today, the photos remind me how beautiful a day it was.
 

June 14, 2013

“Today could not have been more perfect; clear blue skies, warm sunshine, no rain, wind or hail! After battling the elements yesterday, today was more than we could have hoped for. We left Wayra Lodge after breakfast and trekked downhill above the Salkantay River to arrive at the Colpa Lodge at Colpapampa in the afternoon, having descended from 12,812 feet to 9,414 feet. A picnic break mid-morning was interesting surrounded by the cast of animal farm! Throughout the hike our trail was lined by numerous exotic flowers as you can see. At Colpa Lodge we were welcomed and greeted with a Pachamanca lunch, a special Peruvian barbecue of lamb, chicken, beef, guinea pig, potatoes and beans. Once again the genuine warmth and grace of the staff made us all feel very privileged to be in this beautiful country. Siesta time in the afternoon followed by a therapeutic jacuzzi under the stars, Pepe’s history of the Incas, dinner and bed. The highlight tomorrow will be a visit to a coffee plantation where we will roast, grind, filter and drink fresh coffee – can’t wait. Hope you’ll join us…”
 

Return to Machu Picchu – Day 3

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Day 3 – June 13,2013
 

“…well, we made it as you can see. How to describe our nine hour hike through rain, hail, snow and wind (sounds like a painting by Turner): unforgettable, challenging, painful (at times), breathtaking (literally), and undoubtedly the hardest physical experience of our lives. But we wouldn’t have missed it for the world. When we reached the Salkantay Pass at 15,213 feet and formed a circle I think we all felt a real sense of personal achievement, I know I did. However I have to thank Carlos who stayed with me at the back of the pack and gave me some of his home made medicine to inhale to help my breathing; I couldn’t have done it without him. After our great group photo it was downhill all the way, and will be until Machu Picchu. The lunch tent appeared in the mist like a wonderful mirage and after lunch a further one and a half hours brought us to The Wayra Lodge, jacuzzi, dinner and bed.”
 

Return to Machu Picchu – Day 2

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Continuing a look back to our trek to Machu Picchu 10 years ago today.

 

Day 2 – June 12th, 2013

 
…After an early breakfast we set out in the rain on a two and a half hour hike to Humantay Lake situated at 14000 feet below Mount Humantay. In spite of the conditions, as the pictures show, it was worth the struggle, which it certainly was at times. We picnicked by the turquoise water of the lake before returning to the Lodge for lunch; I’ll vote for downhill any day! The afternoon was highlighted with jacuzzi time outside in the rain accompanied with a round of Pisco Sours, which we then had instruction on how to make before dinner. Just remember 3 1 1; three parts Pisco to one part each of fresh lime juice and cocktail syrup, plus half an egg white all blended together with ice…cheers! The staff here at the lodge have been wonderful and we shall miss them when we leave at 7am tomorrow morning for the most challenging day of the trek, hiking to the Salkantay Pass at 15,213 feet and descending to the Wayra Lodge at Wayraccmachay. More tomorrow – I hope!…
 

Return to Machu Picchu – Day 1

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Today is the 10th anniversary of our seven day trek to Machu Picchu with Mountain Lodges of Peru. Join me over the next seven days as I look back and I relive one of the most memorable adventures of our lives.
 

Day 1 – June 11th, 2013

“…and so after a seven o’clock start day one of our trek begins; Cusco to Soraypampa.  We have a great group as you can see from the photo taken at our first stop at Quillarumiyuq, meaning moon stone, en route to the beginning of the trail at Marcoccasa.  “We happy few” (a little Bard on the the Peak for Christopher) set off on a four hour hike excited, a little anxious but knowing we are in for the experience of a lifetime. Our senior guide is Pepe and his assistant Carlos. How lucky we are to have them lead us. The first hour was very challenging climbing it seemed at an angle of 70 degrees. Fortunately the remainder was very do-able with the trail lined by alpine flowers all the way. It was a welcome site arriving at the Salkantay Lodge situated at 12,690 feet with a feeling of relief and achievement. Refreshments awaited, and then a wonderful dinner of fresh trout, stargazing with Pepe; and so to bed. Wi Fi is very hit and miss so I don’t expect this will be posted for a day or two. Hopefully you will have faith and still be there…”